There were several things wrong with my
car that affected full throttle operation and likely made tests such as
K&N vs. stock air filter inconclusive.
The in-tank fuel pump was in operative which evidently causes
a lean condition on the upper end and mine was. My full
throttle switch was also inoperative so the engine
computer never got the signal to go to the full throttle
fuel/spark map. I wonder how many other cars there also had a bad full
throttle switch. Evidently, it's fairly common.
The actual mods are pretty minimal, and not too expensive.
Mostly just a lot of hard work.
- Home brew exhaust system from stock manifold flanges on
back. It uses the stock manifolds (no headers). It
uses 2.5" OD mild steel tubing. No catalytic converters.
X crossover just behind the clutch housing. Bullet brand mufflers in
the stock muffler location. No rear muffler. I can easily change back to
the stock system when DEQ test time rolls around.
- Autothority chip. This was essential because the low end
performance was dismal with the exhaust and the stock
chip.
- Adjustable fuel pressure regulator. However, the best
setting is within the specified fuel pressure for the
stock regulator, i.e. 3.8 bar. Set just a little on
the low pressure side of normal range. I use a LED bar graph type mixture
meter connected to the oxygen sensor to monitor mixture. It's not real
accurate but does give some indication of what's happening. I bought it
from J.C. Whitney, but the calibration was off so I
re-calibrated it for each of the 10 bars to equal 0.1
volts change out of the oxygen sensor.
- 3" flex tubing in place of the stock intake tubes.
- Flow straightener inside the air box to better direct the
air into the mass air flow sensor.
- 7/8" riser under the air filter to give more room
under the filter for better, less turbulent, air flow
into the mass air flow sensor.
Louie
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